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This transition represents the juncture between the primary and secondary systems.

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Once the 20,volt spark is produced, it's managed by the secondary ignition system. The big electrical charge travels out the top of the coil and through the coil wire to the center terminal of the distributor cap.

The current then arrives at the rotor, which will deliver the charge to the correct spark plug at exactly the right moment. Once the required spark is produced there are several variables that must be managed in order to assure that the spark is delivered to the spark plug at the correct time. Two of the most important factors are engine timing and breaker-point dwell.

Both involve the distributor. In the Beginning: Points and Condenser-Based Ignitions With the distributor cap off you will see the points and condenser. The condenser is an electrical capacitor that can store a small amount of current. When the points begin to open, current, flowing through them, seeks an alternative path to ground. It will try to jump across the gap of the points as they begin to open and this would eventually cause damage to them.

To prevent this from happening the condenser provides an alternative path to ground. It's not really a ground but functions as one for a short time. By the time the condenser is saturated with this residual electricity the points are far enough apart so that the small amount of remaining voltage won't be able to jump across.

Ignition Upgrades:Electronic Ignition There are many modern alternatives out there that eliminate the troublesome variables inherent in a mechanical system.

As mentioned earlier, the Pertronix Ignitor is just one of several available that will eliminate dwell and gap concerns completely. This photo shows a complete Pertronix replacement distributor for a W engine. Another factor that affects service life of the points is mechanical wear. There is a rubbing block on the points that is in contact with the distributor cam and this block wears down over time. Hence, the points require periodic adjustments to compensate for this.

There are two ways that the points can be measured to see if they need an adjustment. One way is by measuring the gap between the open points when the rubbing block is on the high point of the distributor cam. The other way is by measuring the dwell electrically. The dwell is the length of time measured in degrees of distributor cam rotation that the points stay closed.

On our classic Ford cars there is no dwell window in the distributor cap to allow for an adjustment while the engine is running. The points are adjusted with the engine off and the distributor cap removed. A feeler gauge is used to measure the point gap at the open position.

The points are loosened and moved slightly to achieve the desired gap adjustment and then retightened in the correct position. Once the distributor is reassembled, the engine is run with the dwell meter attad.

Any further adjustment will require a repeat of the procedure. Measuring dwell is much more accurate than setting the points with a feeler gauge alone.

Engine Timing On a complete tune-up for a classic Ford car, the points, condenser, and spark plugs would be replaced.

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With the new equipment in place the point gap would be set manually, the dwell cked, and the engine timing set to specifications. The timing is set by loosening the distributor hold-down clamp and rotating the body of the distributor.

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A timing light connected to the No. The light flashes each time the cylinder fires and the light is directed at the engine timing pointer, which has the harmonic balancer rotating beneath it. Marked on the balancer is a scale showing degrees of advance or retard of the engine timing in deviation from top dead center. A timing adjustment set "before top dead center" or BTDC, is an advanced setting.

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An adjustment with the engine running after top dead center, or ATDC, would be a retarded setting. With the engine on TDC the No. Rotating the distributor body changes the position where the points contact the distributor cam. Because the cam is geared to the engine rotation, this adjustment changes when the sparks occur with respect to the rotation cycle. While setting the initial or base timing is important for an engine to run properly, the timing needs to change depending on the speed of the engine and the load that it's under.

By using either mechanical centrifugal advance or a vacuum-actuated mechanism, we can change the engine timing adjustment and advance the timing as the engine runs to suit the requirements according to rpm or load. The spark merely ignites the mixture and it will only burn at that one rate regardless of how fast the engine is turning.

Hence, as engine speed increases, the engine timing must automatically advance to occur sooner in the cycle. In other words, the faster the engine is spinning, the earlier we have to fire the plug to produce optimum power. Once computer controls were able to directly control the engine's timing, vacuum and centrifugal advance mechanisms were no longer necessary and were eliminated.

If you'd like to enjoy the advantages of an oversized distributor cap but you don't want to replace the whole distributor you don't have to. You can have the larger diameter using production Ford equipment pirated from later-model Mustangs and other Fords of the late '70s. Ignition Upgrades:Capacitive Discharge A stock ignition system uses an inductive discharge. In this arrangement the coil must store and then step up the voltage between each firing.

At normal rpm ranges this system works fine. However, as engine rpms climb the process begins to happen too quickly for the coil to have time to store up a complete charge between each event. The result is that the firing occurs faster than the coil's ability to store up a complete charge, meaning that the spark is fired at less than peak efficiency.

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They are contact swits that route electricity from the motor to a variable resistor to ground. Air-conditioning systems function via a couple of traffic-cop swits. The compressor clutch is an electromagnet that engages the pulley and compressor shaft when it is energized.

We energize and engage the clutch via the fan and thermostatic swits with under-dash air conditioning. With in-dash air conditioning, we have to jump three hurdles to get power to the clutch. This means if your compressor clutch isn't engaging, you need to ck all of the swits. With under-dash air conditioning, bypass swits one at a time to determine fault.

If both swits ck out good, test the compressor clutch by running a jumper lead from the positive terminal to the compressor-clutch lead.

If the clutch doesn't engage, it's faulty. Don't forget to ck grounds while you're at it. A faulty ground will stop clutch engagement as quickly as disconnecting the battery.

In-dash air-conditioning compressor clutch engagement requires that three swits work properly-the fan switch, the thermostatic switch, and the vent-door switch. All must make contact in order to get power to the compressor clutch. On newer Fords, you must have a pressurized air-conditioning system serviced with refrigerant or the pressure switch won't allow operation either.

Reliability depends on the switch and how often it is used.

Windshield-wiper swits are normally reliable. Headlight swits seem to have a lifespan of five to seven years in regular use. Some last five years-others last Much depends on climate, conditions, and use.

Headlight swits fail when circuit breakers cycle headlamps off and on. Corrosion gets the best of the contacts inside. Charging And Starting System Problems Likely the largest electrical system struggles for most of us are charging and starting systems.

Defective voltage regulators-especially mechanical types, cause dead batteries and no-charge conditions. Mechanical regulators suffer from burned contacts, which hamper charging.

Rarely will it be the generator or alternator. Dead batteries call for a slow trickle charge, known as deep cycling, over an eight-hour period, then a load test. If the battery doesn't survive a load test after deep-cycle charging, it's defective. This can be tested at any reputable auto parts store. Because these folks sell a lot of batteries, alternators, and starters, they're equipped to ck your battery.

They are also set up to test alternators and generators. Getting Started Starters fail primarily because they work in a hot and dirty environment.

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Brushes become contaminated. Breaks develop in the copper windings. Extreme header heat, especially after shutdown, can cause a starter to seize up short term until things cool off.

Starter drives can also fail, making it impossible for the starter to engage the flywheel or flexplate. Sometimes all your starter needs is clean-up and lubrication. White grease and WD applied inside the Bendix starter drive makes all the difference. Clean slippers and brushes can also make an old starter like new again. Starters get blamed for solenoid woes, too. It isn't always the starter. ck the solenoid for continuity by disconnecting the starter and cking for contact at the terminal with a test light.

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Listen for the "click" when someone turns the key to start and watch the test light. If the test light doesn't illuminate or you don't hear the click, further investigation is necessary. When solenoids don't respond, it isn't always the solenoid. Make sure the "S" lead is getting power to the solenoid from the ignition switch. Sometimes the ignition switch has burned and pitted contacts.

The best solenoid function test is bridging the path between the battery terminal and the "S" terminal with a screwdriver, taking care not to ground the screwdriver or better yet, a remote starter switch. If the solenoid clicks and your test light illuminates starter terminalthe solenoid is good.

How Do Senders Work?

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Instrument senders complete a circuit to ground. Variable resistor senders vary the resistance to ground, which controls instrument reading. When there is no resistance to the flow of electrons to ground, the gauge maxes out. When there's a lot of resistance to the flow of electricity to ground, the instrument reads low. Instrument senders control the flow of electricity to ground to either illuminate a warning light or move an instrument needle. The fuel-sending unit is another example of a variable resistor, which works off a float in the fuel tank.

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When the tank is empty, resistance is high and the needle rests at "Empty. With the key on, the light on the dash will illuminate or the mechanical gauge will peg to the high side full, hot, and so on.

When we left off last night in our Week To Wicked Mustang LX Sport project, we had just removed the stock engine and transmission and installed most of the Maximum Motorsports suspension. The first step is installing full-length Fox-body Mustang subframe connectors from Maximum Motorsports to our LX hatchback.

Readers share the story and pictures of their muscle Mustangs and fast Fords. We apologize for this inconvenience and encourage you to visit www. Ford Wiring System - Automotive Electricity How To. Interior Electrical. Jim Smart. Although electrical systems are intimidating, they are really quite simple once you become familiar with them.

HOW TO: Ford Voltage regulator Test \u0026 FIX

Each wire is color coded for easy identification. Gang plugs exist for effortless service and component removal. A voltmeter measures voltage-whether you have power or not-and how much. An ohmmeter measures resistance to the flow of electricity, measured in ohms.

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These are the two most important functions. A test light tells us at a glance if we have power. For electrical work, repair, and troubleshooting, you need cool tools of the trade: wire strippers, razor knife, electrical tape, butt connectors, plugs, and more.

It's a good idea to have all kinds of connectors on hand for repairs and installation. Don't forget heat-shrink and zip-ties while you're at it. Good wire crimpers make all the difference in your connections.

Take it a step further by soldering all of your connections once crimped. Automotive electrical-system wiring is color coded for easy identification.

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This makes short work of finding lead origins and destinations. When creating your own wiring, say for a stereo or electric-fan install, use multiple wire colors and draw a diagram.

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It will help in the future for repairs or wiring changes. Headlight swits and circuits are protected with a circuit breaker inside the switch. Circuit breakers are used for safety because they don't completely break the circuit should a short occur.

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They cycle the headlamps off and on. Also in the headlamp switch is a variable resistor to control instrument lighting. This is a variable resistor-a coiled stretch of resistance wire designed to increase impedance resistance as we dim the lights.

The solid contact turns on the courtesy lights. Photo Gallery View Photo Gallery. The fan switch routes power to ground through this variable resistor.

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This is a typical three-speed fan switch. It is not a variable resistor as many believe.

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Resistance takes place at the variable resistor at the heater plenum. It is easy to improperly install an alternator wiring harness during replacement.

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Snap photographs of your original alternator before removing the harness. cking your Ford Shop Manual is also a good idea. This is something you don't want to get wrong. Starter power begins at the battery and solenoid. Solenoids are nothing more than electromagnets-heavy-duty swits relays we energize with the ignition switch-that get power from the battery to the starter and ignition coil. When you turn the key to start, the "S" lead fires the solenoid, which makes contact between the battery and starter.

At the same time, power passes through the "I" lead to the ignition coil. Solenoids fail for two basic reasons: They can stick in the "on" position and continue cranking our engines, or they just don't work at all due to internal failure. They cannot be serviced, only replaced. Connect With Us. Stay informed with our Newsletter Sign Up Now. Most Popular. View More Girls.

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